Friday 20th February – Bye bye New Zealand, hello Australia
Rainy day in Christchurch. Returned car and flew to Sydney in a flight run on behalf of Quantas by Jetstar, an airline seemingly run entirely by accountants and a singularly unimpressive experience. We caught the minibus that shuttles between the airport and central hotels. The traffic was very congested as it was a Friday evening. The Grace Hotel is venerable and well situated. We are on the tenth floor, well away from traffic noise.
The contrast between Christchurch and Sydney is immense. Not only is the population much younger and numerous, but Sydney seems vibrant and aspirational compared with Christchurch which appeared somnambulant and directionless.
Saturday 21st February
Went out hunting breakfast, which we found just behind Circular Quay, a very busy area with ferries coming and going constantly. Walked to the Sydney Opera house just round the bay which when you get close to it is far better than even at a distance. The exhilarating curves and peaks of the roofs counterpoising the angular glasswork is inspirational. The location is magnificent. We both agreed it to be one of the finest buildings we had ever seen.
Then back around the quay and up around the Rocks area. The Museum of Modern Art was fun for the most part and shelter from a thunderstorm. Then across the Sydney Harbour Bridge which has a walkway one side, traffic in the middle and a double-decker railway at the other side.
Returning, we ambled around the NSW Government house gardens and into the Botanic Gardens. It was by now late afternoon and the flying foxes were stirring from their daytime sleep. The treetops were festooned by what at first looked like dark bags hanging from the upper branches, but were actually huge bats suspended upside down.
Overcast with rain in evening.
Sunday 22nd February
Hunted down breakfast at Darling Harbour, where we found that in Australia they apply a 10% surcharge for eating on a Sunday as well as bank holidays. Much less busy than Circular Quay and more enclosed by the old wooden Pyremont swing bridge. Then walked through to Paddy's Markets and wandered around the stalls. Returned to drop our purchases at the hotel by travelling a full circuit on the monorail which swings in and out of buildings and surprisingly close to corners and walls.
Walked across Hyde park to the Australian Museum. One of the best mineral collections I can remember seeing, also a surprisingly unsanitised performance by a local aborigine explaining his origins and music with the digeridoo mimicking the sounds of native animals and birds.
We left the museum to find the sun had come out, and walked on to the Art gallery to look at Australian art. Paused outside to watch some form of short film festival in the park. Seemed to consist of sitting in sponsored cardboard seats watching a big screen whilst eating jelly beans.
Onwards, we walked to Mrs Macquarie's chair, a seat carved into the cross bedded Permian sandstone below a natural overhang, and round the bay back to the Sydney Opera House. The steps at the front were teeming with people watching the Victorian Bush Fire memorial concert on another big screen.
An expensive beer on the quayside while the sun set, then back to the hotel.
Monday 23rd February
Caught the Manly ferry and walked to Shelley Beach on the ocean side. Great trip across the harbour to a pleasant low key beachside community. The sun shone and the water was warm and luckily shark free.
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