11th - 12th February

11th February – Milford Sound

Following a spectacular drive through high glacial valleys surrounded by mountainous peaks, then finally a kilometre long road tunnel through a valley head into a cirque on the seaward side, we reached Milford Sound. This is an overdeepened fiord formed during the ice ages.

The weather was overcast but the cloud base was high and it was mercifully dry, not a frequent occurrence at a place with an annual rainfall of 6.7 metres, an average approaching three quarters of an inch per day.

We boarded the 'Milford Wanderer' and found that rather than sharing a cabin with strangers, they had assigned us a cabin to ourselves. We set sail through dramatic scenery, the rock walls of the fiord reaching up to 1200 metres and with snow and ice still visible on the south facing slopes of the peaks far above us.

The ship moored in Harrison's Bay and we went off kayaking. The water was clear, cold because it was fed from glacial meltwater, and calm. We heard penguins on the shore but couldn't see them. It was a wonderful feeling to be out on the water by ourselves in such an atmospheric location. Well, alone except for the occasional attentions of sand flies. Despite applying Deet to known vulnerable areas, they discovered that the tops of our heads were tasty too.

After dinner, because I had emailed when booking that it was our 60th birthday tour, we were presented with a complimentary bottle of wine, and found three friendly Germans to help us celebrate.

12th February

The next morning dawned fine again and the ship headed out to the Tasman Sea. Looking back, you could understand how Captain Cook had completely missed the Sound. You couldn't see the entrance at all. Then we cruised back to the head of the fiord, pausing to poke the bows under a waterfall higher than Niagara.

As we moored, we spotted a penguin calmly watching us from under the jetty.

Long drive to Queenstown, partially through rain. Found our motel, 'The Lofts', easily and it has not only a bath, but a washing and a drying machine too.