Sydney to Melbourne

Tuesday 24th February – 1030km to Melbourne

Eventually picked up car from Europcar at the Mercure hotel, had to go and have breakfast as car wasn't ready, then set off without a map or much help. Nice new car but very poor organisation. However, made it out of Sydney without much fuss and proceeded southwards, past Botany bay to Wollongong. Stopped to buy provisions just south, then drove onwards beneath the lowering scarp of Illawarra to the sleepy little town of Kiama to look at a blow-hole in columnar basalt which, as it was low tide, wasn't blowing. In compensation, though, an albatross wheeled past, the first we had seen. The Tourist Information centre recommended the Kiama Ocean View Motor Inn, which provided us with a comfortable clean room for the night.

The trick to this seems to be to stop and an Information Centre soon after 4pm because they close at 5pm. They recommend local motels that are of a decent standard and all is well.


Wednesday 25th February - 900km to Melbourne.

High tide when we left, and the blow-hole was blowing spray to the height of about 5 metres, even with the moderate swell.

Drove further south, stopping at Batemans Bay for coffee, then the pretty town of Narooma for pic-nic lunch and a swim in a small bay protected by a net. The sun was hot, the water was cold but with masks and snorkels we could see the waters were alive with fish. Unsettlingly one of the first I saw was a jellyfish, but it swam off whilst I was watching it. In some places it was like swimming in an aquarium, fish everywhere.

Driving as far as Batemans Bay was frustrating because of incessant low speed limits. It was like driving in slow motion. Afterwards the limit was mainly 100 kph which although not fast at least meant we could travel at similar speeds as in New Zealand.

Then stopped for the night at Merimbula. The Info centre recommended the Black Dolphin Motel which provided a magnificent room with its verandah looking out over Lake Merimbula to the sunset. Staggeringly beautiful. Parakeets squabbling noisily in the palm trees, egrets stalking the shallows for fish, the odd pelican mooching around and mountains in the distance. A glass of chilled white wine, a few olives and a temperature of about 23 degrees C on the verandah as the sun goes down. Am I making anyone jealous?

Thursday 26th February – 575 km from Melbourne

Drove southwards again, spotting our first kangaroo browsing in a field by the side of the road, and later on metre high termite mounds. Decided to postpone filling up with petrol until the town of Genoa. It was only after we had passed through it that we realised we hadn't seen a petrol station. The next town was 83km further, which we weren't going to make, so we retraced our route back to Genoa, and found a shop with a petrol pump outside it. Unfortunately it had a faded paper notice on it reading 'No petrol, nearest pump Mallacoota 23km'. Luckily, although the indicator was on empty by the time we got there 23km of twisty roads later, we were able to fill up. Taught us that towns on the map can't be relied on to have petrol and to always keep at least 100km range in the tank.

It was raining at Mallacoota so we decided to press on. The weather gradually improved as we drove through miles and miles of fairly similar eucalyptus forest and we reached our objective, Lakes Entrance at lunchtime.

Lakes Entrance is a funny place, a tourist town with few tourists that closes at 5pm. The Information Centre recommended a lovely motel, the Sand Bar Motel, where not only do you get a spacious room, but cooked breakfast too – all for $AU85 per night.

Went walking and met a man walking his dog on the beach. Christine asked him if the many jellyfish we saw stranded on the sand were dangerous. He said they didn't have stingers and then asked her to observe his dog. It was a German Shepherd without a tail. He said that one night, high on drugs and alcohol, he had fetched hi axe and chopped off the dog's tail. Christine looked aghast, he went on ' well the Pom's eat oxtail soup, we eat kangaroo tail, so I just wanted something for my shepherd's pie'. Christine then realised she had been well wound up and laughed.

Later we found a restaurant boat moored in the middle of the fishing fleet – claimed to be the largest fleet in the Southern ocean. Although we only intended to drink a couple of beers as the sun went down, we ended up staying to dine on a seafood platter for two. This was a combination of hot and cold fish and seafood with chips and salad, all on a huge plate. The oysters and scallops were the best we had ever tasted. Also included were what i think were called Moreton Bay Bugs, which looked a bit like crayfish but tasted more like crab,

Friday 27th February – 315km to Melbourne

Hired a day boat and chugged up and down the lakes. Not only did the boat not have neutral or reverse (except an oar), it didn't have a starter either (just a hand cranked starting handle). To change speed involved putting your hand into the engine compartment and manually adjusting the carburettor.

First we sailed up the North Arm to a little jetty at the top of the lake where we moored and walked up the hill to the Wyanga Park winery. Met the very personable white bearded owner, Henry. He said that he always commended northern folk of any country for the warmth of their friendship, and that he always followed this commendation with the comment 'and the looseness of their women'. At this point he seemed to loose half his audience too but his wine was excellent.

As we entered the second lake, the sky became overcast and the wind started to blow. We decided not to go all the way to the end but to turn around at the end of a sand island. The lakes are formed by waters landlocked by the Ninety Mile Beach sand spit. As we turned, the motor faltered. I looked over the stern to see whether the propeller was fouled., and was surprised to see that not only were we not moving, but there wasn't sufficient depth of water to float in. We had inadvertently grounded on a submerged sand bank. Luckily a few pushes with the oar and we were free, but it was a desolate spot to get stranded.

Back on terra firma a game of mini-golf completed a very 'holiday' sort of day. We won't reveal the result save to say it was closer than the last game.

Saturday 28th February – to Melbourne

Drove westward stopping at the Dandenong National park where white and pink cockatoos flitted around the entrance. As we walked down a tree fern lined path under the canopy of high eucalyptus trees, Christine spotted a movement in the undergrowth. It was a Lyre bird scratching for food amongst the forest litter.

Finding our apartment 'Metro at Bank Place' in the very centre of Melbourne was a nightmare due to the combination of one way roads and trams with the rule that when you want to turn right, you have to stop on the left of the street and then turn right across the lines when the lights change to amber. I was glad to park the car safely in a multi-story car park where I hope to leave it until we leave.

The four star apartment is very comfortable, includes a washing machine and a dishwasher and is in a converted Victorian building with high ceilings.

Australia

Friday 20th February – Bye bye New Zealand, hello Australia

Rainy day in Christchurch. Returned car and flew to Sydney in a flight run on behalf of Quantas by Jetstar, an airline seemingly run entirely by accountants and a singularly unimpressive experience. We caught the minibus that shuttles between the airport and central hotels. The traffic was very congested as it was a Friday evening. The Grace Hotel is venerable and well situated. We are on the tenth floor, well away from traffic noise.

The contrast between Christchurch and Sydney is immense. Not only is the population much younger and numerous, but Sydney seems vibrant and aspirational compared with Christchurch which appeared somnambulant and directionless.

Saturday 21st February

Went out hunting breakfast, which we found just behind Circular Quay, a very busy area with ferries coming and going constantly. Walked to the Sydney Opera house just round the bay which when you get close to it is far better than even at a distance. The exhilarating curves and peaks of the roofs counterpoising the angular glasswork is inspirational. The location is magnificent. We both agreed it to be one of the finest buildings we had ever seen.

Then back around the quay and up around the Rocks area. The Museum of Modern Art was fun for the most part and shelter from a thunderstorm. Then across the Sydney Harbour Bridge which has a walkway one side, traffic in the middle and a double-decker railway at the other side.

Returning, we ambled around the NSW Government house gardens and into the Botanic Gardens. It was by now late afternoon and the flying foxes were stirring from their daytime sleep. The treetops were festooned by what at first looked like dark bags hanging from the upper branches, but were actually huge bats suspended upside down.

Overcast with rain in evening.

Sunday 22nd February

Hunted down breakfast at Darling Harbour, where we found that in Australia they apply a 10% surcharge for eating on a Sunday as well as bank holidays. Much less busy than Circular Quay and more enclosed by the old wooden Pyremont swing bridge. Then walked through to Paddy's Markets and wandered around the stalls. Returned to drop our purchases at the hotel by travelling a full circuit on the monorail which swings in and out of buildings and surprisingly close to corners and walls.

Walked across Hyde park to the Australian Museum. One of the best mineral collections I can remember seeing, also a surprisingly unsanitised performance by a local aborigine explaining his origins and music with the digeridoo mimicking the sounds of native animals and birds.

We left the museum to find the sun had come out, and walked on to the Art gallery to look at Australian art. Paused outside to watch some form of short film festival in the park. Seemed to consist of sitting in sponsored cardboard seats watching a big screen whilst eating jelly beans.

Onwards, we walked to Mrs Macquarie's chair, a seat carved into the cross bedded Permian sandstone below a natural overhang, and round the bay back to the Sydney Opera House. The steps at the front were teeming with people watching the Victorian Bush Fire memorial concert on another big screen.
An expensive beer on the quayside while the sun set, then back to the hotel.

Monday 23rd February

Caught the Manly ferry and walked to Shelley Beach on the ocean side. Great trip across the harbour to a pleasant low key beachside community. The sun shone and the water was warm and luckily shark free.

Christchurch

Wednesday 18th February – to Christchurch

Lazy day today after yesterday's exertions. Beautiful scenic drive through the mountains along wide flat river valleys and across to the Canterbury plain. Easily found the Copthorne hotel with comfortable room. Spent afternoon in the Botanic Gardens, just a few minutes walk away.

Thursday 19th February

Spent what was left of the day after a long brunch in the Christchurch Art Gallery. This is a purpose designed steel and glass structure with the most comprehensive collection of New Zealand art beautifully hung and lit. The modern art was particularly good. Also walked round the adjacent old Canterbury University which now houses artistic enterprises. It is somewhat demeaning that the magnificent old buildings still labelled ' Chemistry', 'Physics' etc. have now mostly become galleries of tourist memorabilia in the shape of kiwis or sheep. There were a few exceptions, one fine painter in a garret room and some passionate tapestry weavers.

16 - 17th February

Monday 16th February – to Arthur's Pass

Drove northwards via the old gold mining town of Ross and the laid back town of Hokitika which was good fun. Then inland to Arthur's pass which Tony at Takaka claimed was discovered by his grandfather. Found our motel, the Arthur's Pass Alpine Motel very easily. Spacious cabin with good facilities.

Then walked to the Devil's Punchbowl falls, a short walk away.

Tuesday 17th February – the high spot of the holiday?

Awakened at 2am by shunting! The railway and road share the narrow valley and the noise reverberates when the wagons are being marshalled.

To the Dept of Conservation office after breakfast to check the weather forecast and register our intention to climb Avalanche Peak. If you haven't posted the intention's form counterfoil in their box by next morning, they call out the rescue service for you. Very good idea.

We bought Christine a walking pole before we started. So now it is official. Christine has a walking stick!

Starting at 09.30 we climbed up the steep trail up to the bushline, then upwards over grass then scree and rock towards the summit. All the route was beautifully waymarked. We started at 760m above sea level, and reached the summit at 1800m at 13.45. The weather was fine and the cloudbase fairly high so the views were tremendous.

Over the top section we were accompanied by Kea, large alpine parrots who although intelligent enough to scrounge ham sandwiches from climbers, apparently cannot read the signs saying it is bad for them. It is surreal to be high in the mountains, way above any vegetation, and be sitting within feet of a large parrot.

Back down the Scott track which was supposed to be gentler, but in fact because the track doubled as a watercourse in wet weather, was very difficult with boulders and frequent very steep sections. It took us until 18:00 to get back to the road, and Christine swearing she was never going up another mountain, ever.

As we walked back, a train drew in from Greymouth headed by no less than five diesel engines. Three then went back to Greymouth, the train continuing towards Christchurch down the downhill grade with only two engines, It shows the gradient up from Greymouth must be vicious.

14 - 15th February

Saturday 14th February

Beautiful day. Drove northwards through Central Otago valleys lined with vineyards. We had sampled a local Pinot Noir the previous evening and it was impressively good.

Then onward first beside Lake Wanaka and then the stunningly serene Lake Hawea before stopping at the Blue Pools at the confluence of two rivers where the boardwalk overlooked deep pools with large rainbow trout swimming around, then Fantail Falls where visitors had surreally piled the flat schistose pebbles and cobbles of the dried river bed into vertical cairns. The road followed glacial valleys surrounded by majestic mountains including the snow topped Mount Cook in the background.

Crossing the impressive Haast bridge, we reached Fox Glacier. The snout was about twenty minutes walk from the car park. Streaked grey with morraine but deep blue where crevasses cut into the face.

Then northwards to find our rather cramped Bellavista motel at Franz Joseph. The motel booklet includes this anonymous poem to indicate the pluvial nature of the area.

It rained and rained and rained
The average fall was well maintained
And when the tracks were simply bogs
It started raining cats and dogs
After a drought of half an hour
We had a most refreshing shower
And then most curious of all
A gentle rain began to fall
Next day but one was fairly dry
Save for one deluge from the sky
Which wetted the party to the skin
And then at last the Rain set in

Sunday 15th February

Booked a half day trip up the glacier with Franz Joseph Glacier Guides. They provided socks, boots, waterproof jacket and crampons, then took us by coach to the glacier car park. Then a 2.6km walk along braided river deposits and through brush along the valley side to the glacier snout. Steps had been cut up the ice face and rope handrails attached to ice screws. We put on our crampons and ascended several hundred metres up and about a kilometre along the glacier. We looked into deep blue ice and climbed along crevasses. It was incredible being up on the ice surface and the crampons work very well. It is difficult to believe that your feet are going to remain where you place them on a steep ice surface, but they do. Altogether, it was a five and a half hour trip and we were tired but happy by the end of it. After our return, it started to rain.

13th February

Friday 13th February – Otago Goldfields – Christine strikes gold!

Drove to Kawarau gorge to the Goldfields Mining Centre. Jim, our very friendly and knowledgeable guide powered up the pelton wheel driven stamping machine and also demonstrated a water jet used for hydraulic mining of the alluvial gold deposit.

Finally he demonstrated panning and had dug up a pile of alluvial deposit from beneath a boulder further down the valley. Soon after starting panning from the pile, Christine discovered a large flake of gold, probably several grains in weight, almost a small nugget and about the largest size found in the area.

Then we drove on to Cromwell and a restored historic town that had been saved when the area was flooded for a hydro scheme.

Then a detour to Bannockburn, not for a battle, but because it is the centre of wine production in the area. I can vouch that the white is very drinkable.

Then to Arrowtown, a similar restored goldfield town, but with better coffee.

Finally back to Queenstown, a glass of wine on the lakeside and watching the vintage steam ship 'Earnslaw' gradually get larger as she steamed across the lake and into her mooring.

11th - 12th February

11th February – Milford Sound

Following a spectacular drive through high glacial valleys surrounded by mountainous peaks, then finally a kilometre long road tunnel through a valley head into a cirque on the seaward side, we reached Milford Sound. This is an overdeepened fiord formed during the ice ages.

The weather was overcast but the cloud base was high and it was mercifully dry, not a frequent occurrence at a place with an annual rainfall of 6.7 metres, an average approaching three quarters of an inch per day.

We boarded the 'Milford Wanderer' and found that rather than sharing a cabin with strangers, they had assigned us a cabin to ourselves. We set sail through dramatic scenery, the rock walls of the fiord reaching up to 1200 metres and with snow and ice still visible on the south facing slopes of the peaks far above us.

The ship moored in Harrison's Bay and we went off kayaking. The water was clear, cold because it was fed from glacial meltwater, and calm. We heard penguins on the shore but couldn't see them. It was a wonderful feeling to be out on the water by ourselves in such an atmospheric location. Well, alone except for the occasional attentions of sand flies. Despite applying Deet to known vulnerable areas, they discovered that the tops of our heads were tasty too.

After dinner, because I had emailed when booking that it was our 60th birthday tour, we were presented with a complimentary bottle of wine, and found three friendly Germans to help us celebrate.

12th February

The next morning dawned fine again and the ship headed out to the Tasman Sea. Looking back, you could understand how Captain Cook had completely missed the Sound. You couldn't see the entrance at all. Then we cruised back to the head of the fiord, pausing to poke the bows under a waterfall higher than Niagara.

As we moored, we spotted a penguin calmly watching us from under the jetty.

Long drive to Queenstown, partially through rain. Found our motel, 'The Lofts', easily and it has not only a bath, but a washing and a drying machine too.

10th February

10th February – Te Anau

Followed the Southern Scenic Route past windswept beaches and bays until we eventually turned northwards towards the mountains. Stopped to view the Clivden suspension bridge, somewhat less prepossessing than its quasi namesake, but a pleasant stroll. One abutment is underlain by a voluminous spring where water gushes up from the limestone beneath.

Then onto Clivden caves. As the only torch we had between us was the LEDs of my mobile phone, we didn't penetrate far inside the long horizontal passageways.

Lunch occurred at an idyllic lakeshore picnic spot at Lake Manapouri. Then on to Te Anau.

Stopped at the Dept of Conservation wildlife sanctuary where we found an essential guide to prevent us from confusing a Takahe with a Puketu, and an indigenous parrot who spent much time trying to unscrew the nuts that held his cage together, with his beak. As many New Zealand bird names are a mix of unusual consonants with a few vowels, I intend to use them advantageously in Scrabble when I return.

Found the rather basic Fiordland Motel with some difficulty as its position on Google maps differed from reality by about half a kilometre. Possibly due to transcurrent movement along the Alpine fault that runs along the lake in front of it.

9th February 2009

Drove southwards through heavy rain to Curio Bay where the remains of a Jurassic forest lie on a wave cut platform on the shore. Lengths of tree trunks, still with their circular sections preserved by silicification, can be traced for 10 metres or so, whilst stumps are still in-situ. The only other exposure I've heard of like this is in Arizona.

Then on to Slope Point where we braved the rain to walk to the southernmost tip of South Island. We were rewarded by a signpost showing we were almost equidistant from the equator and the South Pole.

A couple of people we met at Slope Point said they had just seen dolphins and a sea lion at Porpoise Bay, just round from Curio Bay, so we retraced our route and found a covered picnic site ( what were the chances of finding somewhere dry to eat in the rain!) overlooking the bay where a pod of Hector's dolphins were swimming and playing. The sea lion must have sloped off, but as we watched, the dolphins leapt out of the water perhaps two metres clear into the air. It was a 'thanks for all the fish' moment, but they wouldn't repeat it while I had the camera running.

On via a small museum at Waikawa, warm, dry and full of interesting items just like a museum should be, to Tokanui where we picked up the key to the motel unit from the Tavern. The motel unit turned out to be a large comfortable house up the next street. The rain stopped and we dried out our clothes using their electric heaters.

7^th February – to Dunedin

A journey day. Left Akaroa early and drove uneventfully southwards through the Canterbury Plain. Stopped at Timaru for coffee and decided that it was possibly the most boring town in New Zealand. It was like being in back in Britain in the late 1950's, probably on a Sunday, when it was raining and something good was on the telly.

Then stopped at the Moeraki boulders, extraordinarily large and spheroidal septarian nodules up to a metre in diameter which had weathered from the low cliff and sat undisturbed on the beach. The tide was well in, so the Pacific waves were breaking around them.

Found our hotel, LivingSpace, easily. The rooms are very small but perfectly formed with a large curved sliding glass partition to the shower area.

Dunedin is the most southerly city in the country, largely built by Victorian Scots, and abounding with Scottish street names and Victorian gothic architecture.

Tried to eat out, but probably as it was the Saturday night of a national holiday weekend, all the restaurants seemed to have unexpectedly closed and we were forced into McDonalds for the first time. Interestingly, this was a branch in which the concept of fast food had evolved into fast food after a long wait.

8^th February - Otago Peninsular

Drove in beautiful weather along the Otago peninsular to Penguin Place. This endeavour is devoted to trying to save the endangered Yellow Eyed Penguin. A very knowledgeable guide called Tim took us round, explaining the habits and problems of the birds. From various hides connected by semi-tunnels we were able to get close to several chicks.

Drove to the end of the Peninsular where there is an albatross colony, but the birds had flown and we didn't see any.

Back to the art gallery in Dunedin which apart from worthy Victorian portraits of Victorian worthies, and an off -colour Monet, had an interesting exhibition of works by a local artist.

Thursday 5^th February Hanmer Springs

Got away early, sad to leave Tony at Carlconna House as we had got on so well over the three days that he had become a friend. Uneventful drive at first over Takaka Hill – this is an understatement. Takaka Hill is a mountain that separates Golden Bay from the rest of the world. The single road across is the only way in or out except by walking four or five days.

Then we drove at first through young steep river valleys, then older valleys with flat floors and finally huge glacial 'U' shaped valleys with braided rivercourses sprawling across their floors. Stopped in Murchison for coffee then on across the Alpine Fault from the Australasian plate to the Pacific plate.

Hanmer Springs is a delightful quiet, open town centred on the thermal springs at the confluence of several mountain valleys. We found the comfortably appointed Hanmer Resort Motel easily. After a game of mini-golf which was a closer contest than before, although of similar outcome, we went to the Thermal Baths.

We entered at the Over 60's reduced rate, and so after two hours soaking in the various thermal pools with views across the trees to the enclosing mountains, became officially both old and wrinkly.

Friday 6^th February

Started early and drove past Christchurch on the gently undulating Canterbury Plain to the village of Akeroa. This is set on the waterfront inside an old volcano that has been breached by the sea on one side, crating a sheltered harbourage. It was formerly a French colony and the road names are still French. Our motel, the comfortable Driftwood Wai iti was on the waterfront and for a few dollars we hired their two person kayak and paddled up and down the length of the bay. It was faster than a single kayak, but surprisingly difficult to steer.

Today is Waitangi Day. This commemorates the signing of the first treaty between the Maori and the British Government. It was a bi-lingual treaty, both in English and Maori, but because Maori was a phonetic, idiomatic language, the translation was somewhat ambivalent as many of the concepts had no direct counterpart. Hence the Maori with no equivalent for the word 'pre-emption' were later surprised to find that they could only sell their land to the Crown. Thus the treaty perpetuated troubled relations rather than solving them.

A similar state of affairs prevailed at supper time, when we had eaten a nicely prepared barbecue on the lawn of a local restaurant and were surprised to find the bill 15% higher than stated. This was explained as the Waitangi day surcharge, which all New Zealanders know about but foreign tourists do not. This neatly exemplifies how the Maori must have felt about British traditions.

Sunday 1^st February

Spent most day at Te Papa museum. Recently built, this is the national museum, brilliantly constructed and really interesting displays on geology, natural history and immigration..

Monday 2^nd February

Up early to catch the ferry to South Island. Hadn't realised this isn't like a normal ferry. After crossing the Cook Strait, it dives towards a mountain wall which opens up to reveal a passageway, the Tory passage, leading into Queen Charlotte Sound. Almost like cruising through the fiords of Norway.

Drove through breathtaking scenery from Picton towards Nelson, then over a marble mountain range down to Takaka in Golden Bay. Golden both because it has a gigh annual sunnshine rate, but also because they used to mine gold here.

Found Carlconna House where we are staying and were warmly welcomed by Tony and Cath, our hosts. The house is wooden, totally renovated and dates from 1874, although it was moved once to avoid a railway.

Tuesday 3^nd February

Following Tony's advice and sketchmaps we drive first to the Abel Tasman memorial. This guy should win the prize for not spotting the elephant in the room. He sailed from Mauritius and managed to completely miss Australia, just bumping into Tasmania and New Zealand on his voyage. Then up a valley and across an Indiana Jones style rope bridge to a waterfall. Lunch occurred by a gentle sandy beach followed by a swim and a game of mini-golf. I was not allowed to add up the scores so cannot divulge who won.

Then on to Pupu springs, the largest spring in New Zealand. They have installed and upside down periscope and as the water is so clear, we could watch a diving bird forage underwater and see a big fish swim by.

Wednesday 4th February

Drove westwards to Wharariki beach. From car park you walk through huge dunes and beach has islands of conglomerate with caves that are approachable at low tide. The northernmost has caves right the way through it so that waves that break on the seaward side ripple through about 100m to reappear as bores in the cave mouth on the landward side. One cave also has a thin coal seam in it.

The central island has several rock pools and is home to a colony of seals. We watched a family of mother, father and four cubs playing on the rocks, scrambling up and down into pools and calling to one another.

Then round to Cape Farewell, the northernmost point of South Island, with an impressive sea arch.

Then on to the start of the large Farewell spit, a long sand spit about 20km in length. However looked fairly desolate and rain was coming so we high tailed it back to the little village of Collingwood. As Tony had foretold, home of Rosy Glow chocolates – yum.

As rain decided not to abate, drove eastwards to the Aorere gold fields. An alluvial gold mining area with little now to show of its past. We tramped along tracks for several hours but saw no traces of gold, just an uninviting looking limestone cave deep in the bush. However as we returned along another track, just as we were getting very unsure whether we would ever see the car again, we met a guy walking the same way who confirmed we were on the right track. As we were changing our boots at the car, he came over and showed us a jam jar with water in it. The bottom was covered with the gold flakes he had extracted from one of the streams. Christine estimated he had about 5g of gold, which he said had taken him two days of work. Work apparently consisted of bedding what he called a 'Swiss Box' in a stream, damming around it to get a good current of water flowing though it, then attaching a flexible tube to a suction spigot. The flow through the box produced the suction, probably by the Venturi effect. The sediment passed a series of riffles where the flakes of gold, each several millimetres across, were trapped. He seemed to be inhabiting an old camper van in the car park, prospecting for gold as his living.