Hokianga and Pahia – a tale of two harbours

Sat 24^th January

Drove across country to Dargaville then northwards to Kai Iwi lakes. These are unlike any lakes we have ever seen before, being situated in giant sand dunes far from and high above the present sea. They are not fed by rivers, just rainfall. The sides are forested in pine and the water is quite warm ( although not as warm as Fiji). Swam then had a picnic lunch under the trees.

Drove northwards to the Waipoua Forest where we first walked along an impressive boardwalk to see the second largest Kauri tree, Te Matua Ngahere or 'Father of theForest' , a very impressive trunk with sizeable trees growing on top of it. Then a few kilometres on to see the largest tree. This is the only tree we have ever seen that actually figures in a nation's cosmogony. Tane Mahuta or 'Lord of the Forest' has pride of place in Maori creation beliefs.

Then on to Hokianga harbour, and an unbelievable view across the ria inlet to a sand dune which must be 300m high, and forested on its landward face.

Found the motor lodge at Rawene easily. Campsite lady gave us a map to walk around the town including a boardwalk above the mangrove swamp near the headland. Stopped at he masonic hotel for a pint then walked back to the campsite.

The views over the inlets to the hills and mountains beyond were stupendous, and the whole place very untouched by either development or tourism.

Sunday 25^th January

Along unmetalled road to Waiere boulders. Greeted by wild woman wearing a hat who turned out to be a Swiss who had gone native. She told us, among other things, that we were quite safe with the Maori thanks to British cuisine. Apparently the Maori did not eat British people because their flesh was too salty. This was because during the long sea voyage, food was preserved in brine or salted and that made our flesh unpalatable to their taste.

The boulders themselves were enigmatic, basalt that looked as though it had weathered like limestone with rills and fluted surfaces. The bush walks were very pleasant however, and the whole place tended with care.

Then onward accidentally on more dirt roads until we hit the main highway. Reached Pahia early afternoon and checked in to the Copthorne Hotel. After playing in the pool we walked into town and ate superb fish and chips at Vinnies by the Bay of Islands.

Monday 26^th January

Caught courtesy bus into town, then ferry to Russell on the other side of the bay. Walked over the headland to a beautiful bay the other side with views out to even more islands. Ferry back to Pahia then back to laze at the hotel.

The Bay of Islands, although geographically similar except being on the Pacific coast rather than the Tasman Sea, is very commercialised with every type of water activity available. The scenery is less spectacular than Hokianga, which we didn't expect. Nice to have a few nights of pampering in a higher class hotel though.